Hello, I’m Odin, and today I’m going to make something from the new Black Widow trailer. It’s Red Guardian’s Helmet. I start my pattern making my favorite way: with aluminum foil and duct tape. I covered half of my head cast with one layer of foil and one layer of tape. The tape and foil will copy my head shape so I can draw on the first layer of helmet pieces. I start with the center line. The left and the right sides will mirror each other. After making a basic outline of the helmet, I start to work on the eyes, and I don’t really like what I drew but you can erase Sharpie marks from duct tape with rubbing alcohol. Knowing that takes the pressure off from doing it right the first time. I keep going, drawing and erasing until I have what I want. Maybe here? Maybe just more pieces. Not like it’s hard, It’s kind of interesting to try something different I make sure to number my parts. It’s very easy to get them confused once they’re all separated. And I try to keep the numbers facing up as a way to know which side is up By the way, these are all left. Left, left, left. And I had little cross marks these will help to keep the pieces of wind when I I will bring them back together Peel the pattern off and cut the pieces out. When I cut the parts out, I try to make sure that they’ll lay mostly flat and if they don’t, I’ll add darts like this one. I trace the tape pieces onto some cardstock because I like using cardstock instead of just the tape bits and then I cut out the clean pattern. I copied all of the alignment marks, piece numbers, and left side on each one. Then I use my pattern notcher to click the alignment marks. This is really nice to tracing them onto foam. I trace all of these pieces onto some 3 mm craft foam. Twice. I flip each pattern over to make a left side and a right side. And there’s a link for the pattern below, so you you can just skip to this part if you want to make one of these. I’m using just some thin 3 mm craft foam. I plan to add a second layer to the helmet because extra layers and glue will make it a lot stronger. but still keep it thin. I heat up all the parts and form them over a planishing stake. This gives those flat pieces a compound curve and they’ll hold the helmet shape much better. I start by gluing the darts together, and with two on each piece, there’s quite a few of them this time. Then I start gluing the big pieces together. I mark each edge so I’m just connecting A to A and B to B, and so on. The side of the head has alignment marks that actually connect to the dart seams, and I’m starting at the back edge so I can get the piece glued on right. The big head parts are easy compared to the face. I needed two little small pieces just for the bridge of the nose and then I made each eye piece from two more pieces: an upper and a lower piece. It doesn’t take long, and I have the thin helmet sock as my first layer, but I’m only planning on making two. I add some 5 mm craft foam eyebrows. Now, these have an angle cut around the edge. I want to try to give the helmet a set of angry eyes. By placing these in between the layers, I should be able to get them. And I repeat the first step again: wrap the head in foil, cover with tape, be slightly annoyed that I ran out of the cheap tape and I have to use my good stuff, draw out all the panels on the helmet as well as I can see them from the four seconds of screen time that they get, and then I cut everything up and tranfer to card stock. Easy. This time, I trace the parts onto different thicknesses of foam: the black foam is 5 mm thick, and I’m still using the 3M gray foam, and I cut a single seamless face piece from some 2 mm foam. Before I glue on the next layer, I use a rotary tool to grind a smoother curve to those angry eyebrow pieces. And then I glue the face on, and I hold the parts against my head cast so the nose will keep the right shape. I could glue a wire right here as well, if I needed an even better fit. I heat up each half of the forehead with a heat gun and then press it to fit over the tan eyebrow, kind of like using the planisher, but for more custom fit. And once they both do fit, I mark where they fit on the first layer, and where the top strips will start. I heat up, form, and glue down the two top strips next. I realize that not everyone has a cast of their own head so if you want something to work from I have the video where I covered a styrofoam head with some craft foam to get it to a bigger size and Bill Duran over on Punished Props has a video where he makes one from scratch with just EVA foam. Now, both of these videos have patterns that you can work from. With the top strips in place, I add the forehead pieces and the next set of top panels and as I lay on each set of pieces, I have the next couple of sets already glued waiting to dry so they can be easily placed. Eww, sticky. That was… that was not cool. In the comics, Red Guardian has a mohawk. For the movie, it was simplified to a silver panel. My 3 mm foam piece will cover most of the seam that goes on the top of the head. I add the 5 mm back panel and stack the two 3 mm panels that go over the ears. Now, I did leave one section of the very first layer showing because it’s lowest part of the helmet that I can see in the trailer. I use a grinding bit on my rotary tool to smooth out the transition from the forehead to the eyes because I don’t really want to see the cut edge of the foam there. I also use a sanding drum to clean up the front edge of the face itself. So, one of the trickiest things with this for me, trying to figure out, is the armored cheekbones. Now, the profile, that was easy, that’s the straight cut. It’s the plateau shape that the cheeks actually make. So, my plan is to take my cheek pattern which will fit what I need here and I’m going to cut that along the top edge of one of these pieces were I’ve sanded the slope to it, right? So, at the thick edge, I’m going to cut it out so it’ll glue in place here and I can glue that down, and I’m going to let it overhang because I’m not worried about trimming it the fit yet and then I’m going to take a secondary slope piece, this time with the slope going up, and I will line up the peaks of the slope and glue them over each other and glue it down, and then I’ll cut the profile back into it. That should get me the shape that I want. To get this long sloped edge, I taped a piece of 5 mm foam to a block of wood and then held it at an angle until I heard the sander reach the wood and this is a much nicer edge than me trying to cut it with the razor knife. And I’m going to cut that along the top edge of one of these pieces where I’ve sanded the the slope to it, right? More rotary tool to clean all of these edges and sculpting them to have a better facial look. I just don’t want the cut edges of foam right here. All right. There are some side locks, or buckles, or luggage locks on the side of the head. I cut a set from some 6 mm foam. I round the edges over because I want these look a little different and glue them in the place. So, I need to make the star. It’s kind of important. Now, I could probably buy one, but I haven’t looked because I’ve got a plan on how I can make one out of foam. I drew a star shape on the computer. I cut out the middle, and then tape it onto some 6 mm foam. Now that I have some guidelines to follow, I make a light cut on the foam… but don’t cut deep, this is just a good mark. Then I’ll use a marker to get the star pattern, and I thought I should go old-school and just use a razor blade to cut the star out. What I’m really trying to avoid is over-cutting the inside corners. I want these to be as accurate as I can get them. Any extra cut here would be easily seen once I’m done. Then I cut a wide deep wedge in each of the arms of the star, never cutting through the other side because if I did, I’d have to start over. I cut my first seam a little deeper between the arms, but still not going all the way through. I put glue in the wedges of each arm, and when the glue dries, I pinch them all shut which makes a peak on the uncut side. The seams between the arms let the star flatten out a little. And I use the same paper pattern help place the star. I carefully cut out a place for it to sit, and glue it down. I use a hot knife to add final panel lines on top of the head, those buckles on the sides, and some on the back of the head and a fine point wood burner to make little rivet holes on many of the panels. I also add the three marks between those furrowed brows. Now, I did putty the seams on the forehead because they’re supposed to be smooth, then the rest of them are fine: they’re all panel lines mostly. A good coat of black Plasti-Dip is the start of painting, followed by a couple more coats of red Plasti-Dip. It was intentional to not fully coat the helmet in red. I left it a little splotchy and red over black actually makes a red darker which is going to be the right color to go for. I blue tape and paper mask everything that I want to keep red because what’s exposed I’m going to spray paint silver. ANd once the silver dries, I cover everything but the star. I want to spray it with the same red I used on Captain America’s Shield, which seems appropriate. All right. But the paint was a little too cold, and the colors are not as nice, so I might actually repaint the star with some fingernail polish later. To weather the helmet, I liberally smear on lightly watered down acrylic paint and then just wipe most of it off. The paint will dry in the Plasti-Dip, but most of it will wipe off while it’s wet. I treat the whole helmet this way, and over the silver parts, too. I’ll spray water on the paint or the paper towel to help remove paint. Then I make sure to work it into the corners and the panel lines. And I don’t need to dry brush red again; I just really clean off the high spots. I use a tiny amount of Rub N Buff silver for the scratches and paint nicks and I place some on the corners of the panels making sure there are a number of paint chips on the edges the panels and on the helmet. Once the acrylic sets, I seal the helmet with a clear coat on the red and a glossy acrylic floor wax I put over the silver. All the materials I used to make this project I picked up locally. I put a part list in the description. Red Guardian’s Helmet. If I could grow a decent beard this would actually be pretty cool! Now, this helmet only had like four seconds of screen time in the new trailer, and no views of the back, so chances are I missed some details and we’ll see something new when the movie finally comes out but for right now, I’m really happy with how the brows worked, and how I got to star to work out. If you want to give this a shot as-is, well, I’ve got a pattern in the description. Just click the link, download it, and you’re good to go. Muahahaha! Still fits! But of course it does, because This is how Odin Makes. Red Guardian’s Helmet Totally lost my train of thought after practicing. I want to thank Itzel Guerrero, Channing M Webb, and all of my Patreon supporters. You guys really do make this show possible. If you like the video. don’t forget to subscribe. Have an idea for something for me to make? Please leave a comment below. And if you make any of these projects, you can send me a picture.